In the Heart of Chef Joanne’s Kitchen, We Celebrate the Culinary Matriarchs of Goan Cuisine

Something about the kitchen can always call to the depths of the soul. It invites you in for an over-welcomed stay, and seduces you into coming back. Maybe you’re there alone, or with a crowd who simply couldn’t resist, but the atmosphere feels like you’re meant to be there. For centuries, these warm quarters have been the epicenter of human connection. Sharing recipes, lending a helping hand, or awaiting the tasting spoon, the spirit of a home pulses from the kitchen—and the story in Goan cuisine is no different.

For centuries, the stewards of this space have primarily been women. Reserved to these gendered pavilions, women served their imaginations on silver platters. Creating universes of flavor across the globe, their recipes and techniques are linked like constellations. Even with women’s roles expanded beyond the home, the human psyche continues to be drawn to the kitchen's allure. Almost magnetic, we drift to preparing meals for human connectedness. As we look back at our favorite memories in these quarters, we must nod to the women who made these spaces familial. 

The matriarchs of the kitchen nourish our spirit for adventure; our appetite for food is only half the battle. For many of us, the kitchen is one of the first places where we learned to persevere and experiment. Adding tweaks and personality, these are the early inner-revolutions that shaped us. In my own conquest for human connection, I spoke with VAWAA master artist, Chef Joanne of Goa, India. Together we journeyed through our memories in the kitchen, the family matriarchs who brought greatness to culinary arts, and the wonders of Goan cuisine. 

How Goa Became the Eastern Spice Capital of The Portuguese Empire

On the west coast of India sits the sprawling coastline of Goa. Known as “the Sunshine State,” Goa is overwhelmed with beautiful beaches and scenic rainforest fauna. A colony of Portugal for more than four centuries, Goa is a hub for cultural crossover. In 1510, the first duke, Afonso de Albuquerque, transformed this seaside haven into an Eastern spice mecca. Today, spices like peppers, chilis, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon are indispensable Goan cuisine delectables. 

The colonial history of Goa has left a Portuguese hallmark on its culinary art scene. Classic Portuguese dishes like Sorpotel and Feijoada have gotten an Indian remix with local spices and fruits like Kokum, Tamarind, and Bimbli. The native wonders of the Goan coastlines have earned this state a top spot in Eastern culinary arts. An oasis for marine life, signature dishes highlight the best their oceans have to offer. From mackerels to prawns, Goan seafood is reinvigorated with a variety of preparation methods. Dried, steamed, fried, and baked, Goa is a haven for the seafood lover. 

Sorportel is a traditional spicy, pork curry that reigns in times of celebration. For weddings, christenings, and holidays like Easter, Sorpotel is a statewide favorite known to bring joy to family gatherings and a bit of spice to your palette.

Beyond the shore, meat dishes offer savory flavors to an abundant array of Goan cuisines. Regional sausages like the spicy-pork Chouricos are a national favorite that unite families and friends in Goan celebrations. Homemade sausages like these follow culinary traditions. Salted to perfection, methodically spiced, and sundried, this local goodie is undoubtedly a Goan cuisine specialty that requires all hands on deck. Are you ready to indulge?

Chef Joanne's Journey from Bombay's Neighborhood Party Circuit to Goan Cuisine Culinary Mastery

Chef Joanne, who’s been experimenting in the kitchen since she was 13, was raised by incredible women chefs,  her aunt and grandmother. Growing up, she helped cook for family parties in Bombay, India, Joanne experienced the joys of community firsthand. Her mother, who lived abroad, would visit during the holidays with bundles of ingredients from her overseas adventures. Churning out exceptional dishes for neighborhood parties and dinners, Joanne took pride in her mother's talents and craved the praise her mother so graciously found on the dining tables.

Meet master Goan cuisine chef, Joanne.

“What I liked most about my mother was that she didn’t just cook,” says Joanne “A lot of people can cook a great meal, but the way she presented her food showed the inner peace she got from cooking for people. In those days, when there was no Instagram to take pictures, she was doing it for the guests.” 

For young Joanne, these were the wonders of the kitchen. Pride is in the presentation and in the journey. As her mother’s self-proclaimed sous chef, she learned the perils of the job when mistakes came front and center. Nervously throwing battered goodies into hot oil once got her fired from her duties, but a determined young Joanne dusted herself off and tried again. 

“One of the very first dishes I made was a Dal, and I had made it very watery. My mother fired me. ‘What is this? This is shameful. You eat this all the time.’ She went on and on… Most people would’ve quit; I didn’t.” She vowed to improve, so much so that she'd outdo her mother's recipe. To her delayed satisfaction—her Punjabi friends in North India (best known for their lentils) have dubbed her a Dal master! 

Refreshing Culinary Traditions in Goan Cuisine

The tradition of orderly chaos with adults tasking children in the kitchen has continued in Joanne’s home in Goa. Her daughter and son have worked their way up from table setting to sous positions, baking creations of their own to take pride in. Joanne says her children are her best critics and credits them for her constant creativity. Their love for their mother doesn’t overshadow their honesty and keeps her Goan creations innovative. 

Thanks to her Vacation With An Artist apprenticeship, which invites you to study the legacy of her craft for 4 days in the heart of her home, Chef Joanne stays curious in the kitchen. Taking food orders from neighbors and family, she is constantly experimenting and updating her menu. Her disdain for wasting food fuels her creativity when refreshing the Goan cuisine delights, but sometimes she doesn’t always get it right. 

She told me of a time she was reminiscing about a childhood favorite: fugias. This soft, airy, deep-fried dough is an East Indian savory bread eaten with curries or enjoyed all on its own. A signature for celebrations, Joanne attempted her own over the COVID-19 lockdown. Unfortunately, she says, “it was a disaster."

We shared a big laugh as she recalled the overconfidence she’d had in making a cultural staple. An aunt sent her the recipe, and Joanne conferred with the global chefs of YouTube; “How hard could it be?” To this day, she vows to never attempt it again. 

Though you may not make homemade fugias of your own, you are still in for a treat when you step into Chef Joanne’s kitchen. Come with an empty stomach and a hunger for flavorful Goan cuisine. With a perfectly curated menu, she has thought of everything to personalize your experience. Indulge in her beloved, mouth-watering signatures like Rechado Mackerel, Pork Vindaloo, Chicken Xacuti, and East Indian Sorpotel. The best part? You’ll learn how to make them all from scratch.

A spread of Goan cuisine dishes, prepared by Chef Joanne.

Preserving the coastal flavors of Goa, Chef Joanne is a mirror of the vibrant culture that will capture your heart. Pulsing from her kitchen is the rich history of her culinary matriarchs and the spirit of Goan cuisine. Though a beloved chef of the Sunshine State, she says VAWAA has presented her with a newfound confidence in the kitchen. “To be a part of VAWAA is huge,” she reflects. “I am very honored for the opportunity to highlight my skills on this platform. I’ve met different people from different backgrounds and countries. I love that they share a little bit of themselves and their culture.” 

Through food lies a timeless connection to our collective human experience. Across centuries, the kitchen has served as the crucible of human connection—an artful space shaped and nurtured by the hands of women. As you embark on a gastronomic adventure with Chef Joanne, celebrate the traditions of Goan culinary arts and reflect on the enduring spirit of the kitchen. For its allure will continue to beckon us; not merely as a space for preparing meals, but as a sanctuary where the essence of humanity is savored and shared.

Written by Tyler Pharr

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